65bellett wrote:JT191 wrote:I don't follow automotive fashion fads (tire tucking and 20+ inch wheels), or know what the suspension setup for a circuit car would have looked like in 1969. But I've been spending Saturdays for the last two years, with my less prestigious car, cranking the camber plates in to maximum, and setting front suspension to about 3/16 inch toe out, in preparation for Sunday races. With my limited experience, I would be more impressed if the rear wheels on Eagle's GTR were vertical, and the fronts were tilted in.
I also like a little rake, as in the back slightly higher than the front.
I don't think the boys at Eagle were trying to look good JT. You are on the ball with the need to get plenty of caster and camber in the front end. If you are going to start driving a Bellett fast around corners you will want as much negative camber as you can get in the rear.
Two more years of Saturday pre-race (non-Bellett) alignments since that post. And the closing race of the season was a personal index record for me for the year and lifetime. (Index is a comparison of all drivers at an event that multiplies the time by a coefficient for the class and compares it to the overall field. We have some kind of math genius in the local club that came up with this thing and it's indispensable for measuring positive and negative improvement.) Needless to say, lots of learning done in the last two years. But my experience is in a type of racing that is all high RPM 2nd (occasionally 3rd) gear panic maneuvers while winding the steering wheel from left lock to right lock and back again. And the 100+ MPH stuff on a road course seems a lot less gorilla and more delicate.
More than 4 degrees camber on the driven wheels and I start seeing a lot of loss of straight line acceleration and braking, because the treaded face of the tire is no longer against the pavement.
Looking at it theoretically, a better option seems to be to move the differential up and reduce the rear camber. Or, back to the 280Z rear suspension I was staring at in the salvage yard for a half hour.
Like I said, all theoretical, and I might find myself doing things that I would have thought were totally insane once I get into it. But over the last two years, I got the serious problems ironed out of the non-Bellett to the point that my street setup and my race setup for this car are nearly identical, and the total suspension changeover is:
1. Move the camber plates 1 1/2 bolt position (from 1.4 degrees to 3.2 degrees).
2. 4 3/4 turns on the steering end links to compensate for the camber change and move from 0 toe to 1/8" toe out.
3. Turn rear shock knobs from one turn to 2 3/4 turns.
4. Change tires.
The better the suspension tune got, the less drastic were the changes that had to be made to get the car to do what it needed to do on the track.
......But has anyone noticed the fuel cap on upsidedowny so that the cover keeps falling to expose the key hole !! (pet hate). 
