Diff info wanted HELP

[Glenn]

Well that's a totally different set up to normal as u don't need to a touch the brake lines in earlier cars....
I would strongly suggest against removing the yoke on the pinion shaft. It needs to be done up to some crazy amount of tension, but is also critical its done right for the pinion bearing and meshing on the crown wheel.
I'd be just undoing the brake pipes and rebleed them afterwards so u can remove it all as an assembly without stuffing something up.... And remember that if u removed all of the front of the diff, it then has to be reassembled in the car itself later.

Thanks Brett. Craig said it looked different also but wasn't sure what was actually different. Thing is, i think its past being rebuilt unless all internals are replaced with a donor. So removing the yoke wouldn't matter much. But as you point out it has to be done anyway later.
Its turning out a much bigger job than i had anticipated now. Dean has offered me a spare diff and to be safe, will get it checked over before fitting too. I wasn't aware of the tension needs for the yoke. That complicates things, putting the replacement diff into the x member I will have to remove the yoke also. It looks like the yoke won't go through that hole.

I wonder if you have a diff lying about, could you measure the max diameter of the yoke for me please.

[Gunna]

Diff, door retainer and "eye patch" sent. Us pirates have to stick together

[Glenn]

Diff, door retainer and "eye patch" sent. Us pirates have to stick together

many, many thanks Dean,. Great to be part of the Bellett spirit.

Glenn

[Glenn]

found out today that the cross member will come off, over the yoke, if wriggled around enough. (on the spare diff) Whether that can be done while under the car, and with brake lines attached, will have to see. If so, the diff might then drop down if the axles don't interfere with the uni shafts into the diff.

[Glenn]

Got the reco'd diff back today. New bearings, front seal (sides not available) etc.
I am about half way with removing tail shaft and driveshaft bolts. Very difficult to get the driveshaft nuts off. Can't fit a ring spanner on them and open-ender struggles.... very tight.

[Asroc66]

Let there be heat and plenty of it on those nuts
J

[Glenn]

whats the best oil to use in the diff

My handbook just says "API-MP class Hypoid oil"

[Asroc66]

Penrite

[PR91]

I use the Penrite full syn. Think its 85/100 or something like that, but near enough to what James posted.

[Asroc66]

Yea B
I run the lighter grade synthetic as my diffs are low mileage and it's colder here across the ditch
The mineral listed is according to Penrite sight
Cheers
J

[Asroc66]

Yea B
I run the lighter grade synthetic as my diffs are low mileage and it's colder here across the ditch
The mineral listed is according to Penrite web site
Cheers
J

[Glenn]

I use the Penrite full syn. Think its 85/100 or something like that, but near enough to what James posted.

my older book says 90 for our temperature extremes. A trip to the store is in order. Thanks for the inputs

[Glenn]

I have every bolt out now, except the long one at rear/top of diff.

Is it possible to get that out without undoing anything else ?

I can get a ring spanner on the nut end, just, but can't turn it much if at all. ie there's no space to move the spanner in that confined space. spanner hits the uni joints]

any hints???

EDIT don't worry, found slightly different spanner to take turns with, nut is off.

[Glenn]

unfortunately the new uni joints are the grease-able type

this is a problem though, my grease gun will not fit the tight space of the Uni

Is there a special fitting for doing uni joint greasing or another way?

edit

the answer, although hard to find in shops, eventually Total Tools had one. An adapter. Not this one but similar.

[Glenn]

Mmmm, nothing ever easy

With the fantastic help from Stephen today, we pulled out the diff.

But it's not a straight swap over at all. The late model uni joint and flange is a different size to the earlier model I am putting in. Bolt spacing is different plus the raised section is a different diameter. And the late shafts don't fit properly into the early diff housing either. So, more work needed..... and more delays.

I wonder why ??

[Stickman]

Seems to be 2 steps forward 1 step back all the way for you Glenn

[Glenn]

Seems to be 2 steps forward 1 step back all the way for you Glenn

sure does. Can't imagine why they change things like that. Even the input shaft does not have a castellated nut on it like the earlies and i think maybe the issue as the shaft is very loose in the housing, can mode it side to side. I had the seal changed by a garage and its looking like they didn't tighten it up correctly. Bit late now of course.

I need to source a new bigger uni of unknown part number which might be fun. We are hoping that the shafts can be modified to swap over. The tin hat on the diff side is different on each shaft and perhaps can be pressed off and onto the other ones......

[Glenn]

and there's more, the tin splash piece that buts up to the Diff, is also different. Late model is welded on, early is pressed on. They are also different in the centre hole diameter and shape where they press onto the seal. Not interchangeable at all. So, the splash piece has now been removed for good.

The whole area is much larger and beefed up in flange size and Uni' size.

For those late models among us (not many) the uni joint is a larger type from a Rodeo 4WD '79-'88- Rear.

[Gunna]

So your out of trouble now?

[Glenn]

So your out of trouble now?

not 100% yet.
The guy is trying to marry the late shafts into the early housing. If no go, he will see whats wrong with original diff. It appears the 'mechanic' who replaced the seal 2 years back, in the front didn't tighten the nut to spec and its loose causing the shaft to wobble about, leak fluid and make the bad noises. Possibly damaged other things also.
But I am hopeful he will sort something out by friday. fingers crossed here..................